Hi everyone
We arrived here last Sunday for our Placement week. It took 9hrs via coach and taxi to get to this remote little place and, as usual in Cambodia, we have been greeted with smiles and friendliness.VSO pays for 2 seats for each of us so we were allright in the back of the taxi for the last leg -80 km on a dirt road with 1 other person.The taxi then filled the front seat with a girl and her 3 children,the youngest of whom shared the driver's seat.The driver put his arm around the little boy to get at the gear stick and when he fell asleep he told the girl to lay him down across the driver's lap.It made us smile; so much for health and safety but a plus for human kindness.
We're staying in a surprisingly nice hotel - new, with a/c and wi-fi but with no staff who speak English!I have met my employer, a non government organisation called CHHRA - Cambodian Health and Human Rights Alliance and the 3 VSO's already here have had us round to their places.They had found 3 houses for us to look at and we've chosen one of them to rent. It`s new,made of cement,pink,tiled beautifully throughout and with a balcony from where we can see the lake and the hills of Thailand.There is a large lounge and a kitchen downstairs and a bedroom upstairs,so not too much to clean. The family who own it are charming and have 2 other houses on the same plot,one for mother and father and one the for their son.
We now have a bicycle each and this is a real bonus because Samraong is strung out over quite an area but is very flat.I can cycle to work in 10 minutes down a country road with traditional wooden houses on stilts, cows, ducks and chickens on the road, a few bikes and motorbikes and lots of little children calling 'hello'. Beats the M60!
Today I went out on the back of a motorbike with Bona, one of the health promotion workers,to several villages.She talked about clean water, covered food cupboards and the value of village vegetable gardens but none of the villages had latrines.I was treated with great respect,fed breakfast of rice,ground green beans with chillies and garlic and then coconut milk. Had a rest in a hammock and was given 2 coconuts to bring home.We sat on a raised wooden platform under a thatched roof.It was cool
and airy and I felt very privileged to share these peoples' lives for a short while.
Hopefully we'll sign the contract on the house tomorrow. Then it's back to PP for more training.Not long now to Laura and Alberto's wedding, April 13th. I'll need a masssive make - over as helmets do nothing for my now very curly hair!
We'll speak again soon. Hope all's well with you all.
Lots of love
Carol and Geoff xx
Thursday 26 March 2009
Thursday 19 March 2009
Island hopping in Cambodia
Hi there - hope you are both well - saw this on the Guardian last week and thought you might like to see - book me in for two weeks! Nick xxx
Cambodia's south coast is littered with pristine tropical islands offering the peaceful beach shack living of Thailand 20 years ago....
Cambodia's south coast has more than 60 pristine tropical islands nestling in the sapphire waters of the Gulf of Thailand. Easily reached from the coastal centres of Sihanoukville, Kep and Koh Kong, they're largely undiscovered with tourism taking its first tentative steps. If you stick to the local or small ex-pat run concerns, the Cambodian islands offer everything from palm fringed deserted beaches, traditional village life to the peaceful beach shack living found in Thailand 20 years ago.
Best for day trips from the mainland: Koh Ru
Approaching from Sihanoukville, the long gold beaches of Koh Ru (Bamboo Island) take the breath away. One of the first islands to capitalise on tourism, you might not be the only one on its two beaches, but you certainly won't be sharing with many. There's a small path through the middle of the island so you can hop between the two in only a few minutes should the crowds of 10 or so overwhelm you. If you decide you'd rather not drag yourself away at sundown, there are a few bungalows on both sides of the island, but it's better to reserve in advance as these can get booked up.
Stay at: BimBamboo Bungalows, pretty turquoise painted bungalows on the beach (double rooms $12 (£8.65) a night) or Coaster bungalows (double rooms $10 a night). Koh Ru Bungalows on the south side have the added bonus of being quieter and it's the place to be for watching spectacular sunsets (double rooms $10 a night; bookings@barrusihanoukville.com).
Getting there: Ana's travel agency in Sihanoukville will pick you up from your hotel ($15 for a day of island hopping including Koh Ru) or Coasters boat leaves every morning at 9.30am from Ochheuteal beach in Sihanoukville ($10 return to Koh Ru).
Best for diving and snorkelling: Koh Tang
The waters around the uninhabited Koh Tang island are known as the site of the infamous Mayagüez incident of 1975 in which the Khmer Rouge captured a US ship. They also offer world-class diving, unspoilt by crowds. Five hours from the mainland and best visited as part of a live-aboard trip, divers are rewarded with a stunning diversity of corals and rocky reef dives where you're likely to see barracudas, octopus and seahorses. Nearby Koh Prins has two wrecks to dive. If you don't fancy a live-aboard, head to Koh Rong Saloem, much closer to Sihanoukville. Here you'll dive with kingfish, moray eels and a wide variety of nudibranch. The island is pretty enough to warrant a few nights of post-dive chilling.
Stay at: The sumptuous Lazy Beach (doubles rooms $25 a night) on Koh Rong Saloem for total relaxation or Eco Sea Dive has simple bungalows (double rooms $30 a night; +855 12 606646).
Getting there: Several tour operators based in Sihanoukville offer overnight trips. Try the friendly Dive Shop which has a stunning new live-aboard boat or the long established Dive Cambodia (Full day trip with two dives costs about US$85 (GBP41 or Euro58).
Best for traditional village life: Koh Sdach
Koh Sdach (King's Island) is a bustling fishing community off the coast of Koh Kong on the Thai-Cambodian border. Mostly made up of Khmers and Vietnamese, the village is centred around the rickety wooden dock you have to hop on to from the ferry. You can wander around the ramshackle town made up of huts on stilts or sit and watch the fishermen head out to sea in their long tail boats - and then enjoy their catch at one of the restaurants in the town. There's also some great snorkelling from the beaches.
Stay at: Mean Chey Guesthouse (double rooms $5 a night; +855 011 788 852).
Getting there: The Koh Kong to Sihanoukville ferry costs $20 and leaves every morning at 8am, stopping halfway at Koh Sdach (departs Sihanoukville to Koh Kong at 1pm).
Best for beachside bungalows: Koh Tonsay
premier resort in the 1920s, and is now inhabited by only half-a-dozen Khmer families who run the beach-side huts and restaurants. The two palm-fringed beaches both have shallow waters perfect for snorkelling and there's nothing more demanding to do all day but swing in your hammock with a cold beer. Generator electricity is available only between 6pm and 9pm, but that's all the better for listening to the night cicadas and gazing at the starry skies.
Stay at: Nyan Voyet Mai bungalows (double rooms $5 a night; +855 (0)12 893 102). Guesthouses in Kep also arrange stays at the island, try Botanica Guesthouse (double rooms $10 a night) or the pleasant Kep Lodge (double rooms $30 a night).
Getting there: Boats leave from Koh Tonsay pier in Kep for $10 return.
Best for a deserted island experience: Koh Rong
If you want to be literally the only person on the beach, then head to Koh Rong. Two-and-a-half hours by boat from Sihanoukville, it's arguably the most magnificent island off the coast. Dumbbell shaped with a dense jungle interior, Koh Rong is a pristine island rarely visited by other travellers. The beach on the southwest side is known as "Snowdrift Bay" and for good reason, its talcum-soft sand squeaks under foot and goes on for miles. There's no path to it, however, so get dropped off there or charter a boat from the fishing village where there's a shop to stock up on supplies.
Stay at: There are no guesthouses on the island, so take a tent, torch and provisions.
Getting there: Charter a boat from Sihanoukville ($50-$80 depending on bargaining skills) or hitch a ride with a dive boat ($40).
Getting there
When to go: Year round. Dry seasons: November to March. Further information: www.tourismcambodia.com Country code 00 855Time difference: +7hrs£1 = 5900 riel although prices are often quoted in US dollars
Cambodia's south coast is littered with pristine tropical islands offering the peaceful beach shack living of Thailand 20 years ago....
Cambodia's south coast has more than 60 pristine tropical islands nestling in the sapphire waters of the Gulf of Thailand. Easily reached from the coastal centres of Sihanoukville, Kep and Koh Kong, they're largely undiscovered with tourism taking its first tentative steps. If you stick to the local or small ex-pat run concerns, the Cambodian islands offer everything from palm fringed deserted beaches, traditional village life to the peaceful beach shack living found in Thailand 20 years ago.
Best for day trips from the mainland: Koh Ru
Approaching from Sihanoukville, the long gold beaches of Koh Ru (Bamboo Island) take the breath away. One of the first islands to capitalise on tourism, you might not be the only one on its two beaches, but you certainly won't be sharing with many. There's a small path through the middle of the island so you can hop between the two in only a few minutes should the crowds of 10 or so overwhelm you. If you decide you'd rather not drag yourself away at sundown, there are a few bungalows on both sides of the island, but it's better to reserve in advance as these can get booked up.
Stay at: BimBamboo Bungalows, pretty turquoise painted bungalows on the beach (double rooms $12 (£8.65) a night) or Coaster bungalows (double rooms $10 a night). Koh Ru Bungalows on the south side have the added bonus of being quieter and it's the place to be for watching spectacular sunsets (double rooms $10 a night; bookings@barrusihanoukville.com).
Getting there: Ana's travel agency in Sihanoukville will pick you up from your hotel ($15 for a day of island hopping including Koh Ru) or Coasters boat leaves every morning at 9.30am from Ochheuteal beach in Sihanoukville ($10 return to Koh Ru).
Best for diving and snorkelling: Koh Tang
The waters around the uninhabited Koh Tang island are known as the site of the infamous Mayagüez incident of 1975 in which the Khmer Rouge captured a US ship. They also offer world-class diving, unspoilt by crowds. Five hours from the mainland and best visited as part of a live-aboard trip, divers are rewarded with a stunning diversity of corals and rocky reef dives where you're likely to see barracudas, octopus and seahorses. Nearby Koh Prins has two wrecks to dive. If you don't fancy a live-aboard, head to Koh Rong Saloem, much closer to Sihanoukville. Here you'll dive with kingfish, moray eels and a wide variety of nudibranch. The island is pretty enough to warrant a few nights of post-dive chilling.
Stay at: The sumptuous Lazy Beach (doubles rooms $25 a night) on Koh Rong Saloem for total relaxation or Eco Sea Dive has simple bungalows (double rooms $30 a night; +855 12 606646).
Getting there: Several tour operators based in Sihanoukville offer overnight trips. Try the friendly Dive Shop which has a stunning new live-aboard boat or the long established Dive Cambodia (Full day trip with two dives costs about US$85 (GBP41 or Euro58).
Best for traditional village life: Koh Sdach
Koh Sdach (King's Island) is a bustling fishing community off the coast of Koh Kong on the Thai-Cambodian border. Mostly made up of Khmers and Vietnamese, the village is centred around the rickety wooden dock you have to hop on to from the ferry. You can wander around the ramshackle town made up of huts on stilts or sit and watch the fishermen head out to sea in their long tail boats - and then enjoy their catch at one of the restaurants in the town. There's also some great snorkelling from the beaches.
Stay at: Mean Chey Guesthouse (double rooms $5 a night; +855 011 788 852).
Getting there: The Koh Kong to Sihanoukville ferry costs $20 and leaves every morning at 8am, stopping halfway at Koh Sdach (departs Sihanoukville to Koh Kong at 1pm).
Best for beachside bungalows: Koh Tonsay
premier resort in the 1920s, and is now inhabited by only half-a-dozen Khmer families who run the beach-side huts and restaurants. The two palm-fringed beaches both have shallow waters perfect for snorkelling and there's nothing more demanding to do all day but swing in your hammock with a cold beer. Generator electricity is available only between 6pm and 9pm, but that's all the better for listening to the night cicadas and gazing at the starry skies.
Stay at: Nyan Voyet Mai bungalows (double rooms $5 a night; +855 (0)12 893 102). Guesthouses in Kep also arrange stays at the island, try Botanica Guesthouse (double rooms $10 a night) or the pleasant Kep Lodge (double rooms $30 a night).
Getting there: Boats leave from Koh Tonsay pier in Kep for $10 return.
Best for a deserted island experience: Koh Rong
If you want to be literally the only person on the beach, then head to Koh Rong. Two-and-a-half hours by boat from Sihanoukville, it's arguably the most magnificent island off the coast. Dumbbell shaped with a dense jungle interior, Koh Rong is a pristine island rarely visited by other travellers. The beach on the southwest side is known as "Snowdrift Bay" and for good reason, its talcum-soft sand squeaks under foot and goes on for miles. There's no path to it, however, so get dropped off there or charter a boat from the fishing village where there's a shop to stock up on supplies.
Stay at: There are no guesthouses on the island, so take a tent, torch and provisions.
Getting there: Charter a boat from Sihanoukville ($50-$80 depending on bargaining skills) or hitch a ride with a dive boat ($40).
Getting there
When to go: Year round. Dry seasons: November to March. Further information: www.tourismcambodia.com Country code 00 855Time difference: +7hrs£1 = 5900 riel although prices are often quoted in US dollars
Saturday 14 March 2009
Kampong Cham
Hi everyone
Now into our 2nd week. It's still very hot and humid but our hotel room has air con and a fan which helps a lot! We came from PP on public transport with Bollywood type videos to entertain us! We're 120 km north of PP in a small town on the banks of the Mekong. The language training happens every day except Sunday, 8 - 12 noon.Our teacher, Dara is lovely- friendly, knows his stuff and is keen for us to learn.We're all levels of abilities from Geoff to me!
I'm finding it very difficult but will keep going. It's a language with simple structures but difficult sounds and not related to anything we know but at least its not tonal, like Chinese! Dara works us quite hard with homework and lots of vocab to learn each day so time passes quickly but we're finding it tiring.
K Cham has 2 western style cafes where we eat. It's not a touristy place. Not particularly scenic but the river is impressive and everyone is curious and friendly. So its an easy place to be, but there's no entertainment except the Premier League which is on TV everywhere. As a treat tonight we're taking a tuk tuk over the Mekong to a beer garden!
1 more week here and then we move on to our place, Samrong, to meet my employer and look for somewhere to live.Thanks to you all who have signed in. We're not sure of the technology either but hope we'll learn as we go along!
Love to you all
Carol and Geoff xx
Now into our 2nd week. It's still very hot and humid but our hotel room has air con and a fan which helps a lot! We came from PP on public transport with Bollywood type videos to entertain us! We're 120 km north of PP in a small town on the banks of the Mekong. The language training happens every day except Sunday, 8 - 12 noon.Our teacher, Dara is lovely- friendly, knows his stuff and is keen for us to learn.We're all levels of abilities from Geoff to me!
I'm finding it very difficult but will keep going. It's a language with simple structures but difficult sounds and not related to anything we know but at least its not tonal, like Chinese! Dara works us quite hard with homework and lots of vocab to learn each day so time passes quickly but we're finding it tiring.
K Cham has 2 western style cafes where we eat. It's not a touristy place. Not particularly scenic but the river is impressive and everyone is curious and friendly. So its an easy place to be, but there's no entertainment except the Premier League which is on TV everywhere. As a treat tonight we're taking a tuk tuk over the Mekong to a beer garden!
1 more week here and then we move on to our place, Samrong, to meet my employer and look for somewhere to live.Thanks to you all who have signed in. We're not sure of the technology either but hope we'll learn as we go along!
Love to you all
Carol and Geoff xx
Tuesday 10 March 2009
Arrival in Cambodia!
We've been here a week and its been a massive culture shock even tho we've been to Asia before. We both arrived with heavy colds and felt very stressed and tired. Packing up a house with all its largely unnecessary chattels and saying good-bye to all our friends and family has taken it's toll but getting our mobiles and laptop sorted has helped us to feel connected. We've also begun to acclimatise to this very hot and humid climate.
VSO have been great - very welcoming with lots of nice things organised to help us settle in. We've had a welcome reception to meet all the staff and other volunteers. Had a cyclo tour of Phnom Penh - an old man on a push bike with a deck chair on the front with us in it! Yesterday we visited a disability project with a young chap in a wheelchair who was inspirational, and with absolutely nothing in the way of support or adaptations, was making a difference. Meanwhile, Geoff was learning about landmines with MAG - remember the t shirt! - a land mine clearing charity based in Manchester!
We're off to Kampong Cham today to begin language training. This will be fun!!
Looking forward to hearing from you all
xx
VSO have been great - very welcoming with lots of nice things organised to help us settle in. We've had a welcome reception to meet all the staff and other volunteers. Had a cyclo tour of Phnom Penh - an old man on a push bike with a deck chair on the front with us in it! Yesterday we visited a disability project with a young chap in a wheelchair who was inspirational, and with absolutely nothing in the way of support or adaptations, was making a difference. Meanwhile, Geoff was learning about landmines with MAG - remember the t shirt! - a land mine clearing charity based in Manchester!
We're off to Kampong Cham today to begin language training. This will be fun!!
Looking forward to hearing from you all
xx
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